Champagne Brasserie
14/20
French
Looks can be deceiving. Tucked away beneath a quaint block of 1970s holiday apartments a stone's throw from the casino seems an unlikely place to find impeccable traditional brasserie fare. Minutes later, having been shown to a table in the cosy candlelit dining room by a charmingly accented waiter, and choosing a French to accompany the cassoulet d'escargots, all doubts are dispelled. A perfectly pink roasted rack of lamb with a thick mushroom crust comes with a cast iron pan of decadently creamy potato gratin, the cheese on top golden and bubbly. The duck too is succulent, the subtle flavours of star anise, cinnamon and cardamom an ideal complement to the rich sweetness of the honey-infused meat. The dessert list includes crepes, with a classic pairing of chocolate sauce and Grand Marnier. But perhaps wait a while before ordering, for the time-honoured French tradition of lingering over and conversation is alive and well here.
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