Spencer Guthrie

Anyone who feels King Street is overly endowed with Thai dining options has two reasons to thank Troy Spencer and Oliver Guthrie. Not only have the former head chef of L'etoile and sous-chef of Lucio's brought more contemporary dining to Newtown, they have also reduced the pad Thai overload by taking over the site of a former Thai takeaway. The long, skinny space is stripped back and textural, and several dishes on the local, seasonal and sustainable menu come with a twist - think roasted heirloom carrots with fennel, chocolate and coffee; and lemon sole with spiced green lentils and crisp apple. A shreddy rillettes-like ham hock terrine with celeriac remoulade is a classic bistro match. Braised baby octopus felt dark and murky, but a spatchcock ballotine, boned and stuffed with a good chestnut mushroom farce and served with barley and corn, shows the kitchen has a handle on flavour balance and style. And not too many Thai joints offer a rich, citrussy lemon curd with orange sorbet.